Warning: include(acton/acton_index.php) [function.include]: failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/parsonsf/public_html/acton/india1.php on line 1

Warning: include(acton/acton_index.php) [function.include]: failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/parsonsf/public_html/acton/india1.php on line 1

Warning: include() [function.include]: Failed opening 'acton/acton_index.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/lib/php:/usr/local/lib/php') in /home/parsonsf/public_html/acton/india1.php on line 1

CHAPTER V

1862-67

INDIA

The first 3½ year tour of duty
With his arrival in India, Major Acton's life as a responsible officer of the British Army may be said to have begun. Immediately upon landing he called upon the Adjutant-General, in order to learn the latest news of the war. It was probably somewhat of a shock to him to find that the officer knew nothing 'officially', and as he could obtain no information, he determined to travel up-country without delay to join his regiment at Nowshera.

Two months' travelling from Bombay
This journey was no light undertaking, for although Charles left Bombay the night of his arrival (January 11th), he did not join his regiment until March 12th. The first month was spent pleasantly enough in traversing the rivers Indus and Chenah until Mooltan was reached; but the remaining distance had to be accomplished in bullock-carts or gharries, conveyances in which the comfort and peace of a river steamer are altogether lacking.

The exhilaration of travelling in a cart drawn by bullocks is not intense, as the reader may well imagine; but from a letter of Charles Acton to his mother, it appears that a journey by gharri afforded a certain amount of excitement. The traveller writes:

What travel in a gharri is like
'The gharri is like a large cab, the luggage being piled on the top. The travellers have a thin mattress placed over the seat, and pillows arranged so that they can lie down the whole journey. The horses rarely start without a fight; they kick, rear, strike out with their fore-feet, or dash to one side or the other. Meanwhile, the driver on the box whips them; from two to ten natives spoke the wheels and push, while others will often, with a rope, drag the fore or hind leg of the more obstinate horse. This often goes on for half an hour, but when the horses are once off they never break their gallop until the next serai, or stopping-place, is reached.'

So long as you know what to expect before you venture into a gharri, the proceedings described by Major Acton may have a sort of fascination; but to the unwary and nervous the delight of such an eccentric mode of travel would not appeal with any force.

A stop at Lahore, and some hunting
Although it took nearly a month for the traveller to get from Mooltan to Nowshera, he was not journeying the whole time. The stopping-places en route claimed some of his attention, especially Lahore, where he managed to pass a very pleasant week. Neither was the actual travelling at all hurried. Many and many a mile was covered on foot, and the diary abounds with accounts of shooting at game big and little — with more or less success — by the way. But even up-country journeys in India are not interminable, and on March 12th the Major found himself at rest, surrounded by old friends and acquaintances and 'very happy.'

He learns Hindi
It appears from the diary that Major Acton hoped for an appointment with the fighting expedition, but he found a knowledge of Hindustani was necessary for an active service command. Accordingly he at once tackled that troublesome language with great determination. His regimental duties, too, occupied much of his attention, so that, what with shooting and riding by way of relaxation, the time at Nowshera did not hang at all heavily on his hands.

He hunts bear at close quarters
At the end of six months he obtained leave and spent a month travelling about the beautiful Kashmir country with coolies and guns. During this visit he shot his first bear. Seeing it a mile off, he stalked after him until within fifteen yards, and then fired both barrels. Considering the distance, it was, perhaps, just as well that the bear died!

Travels and discomforts
After this furlough, eleven months were spent in study and regimental duty at Peshawur and camps in the neighbourhood. The ordinary routine was varied by long marches, sometimes over difficult country, camp being struck at various places until Peshawur was reached again. The brief entries in the diary give a vivid impression of the discomfort of some of these experiences, as, for instance :

'Sept. 7th (1865). — Start about 8 a.m., hurry on mules who go very slowly. Soon hear one has broken its leg! Too true! Drivers all in tears! Shoot mule with No. 45 shot. On. Mules fall frequently, and after great work get up to Tundiani (?) about 1 p.m.'

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


9th.— Send kit on early. Get up at 9 a.m. Showers and then heavy rain delay me till 2 p.m. Then off to Beeran Gully with coolies who don't know the way! Lose ourselves, and toil up and down the mountains till just before dark, when we strike the road. Darkness finds us on a steep descent and bad path. Native with a pine torch comes to show the way, and after a weary walk pass a Bunya's. Then hear that there are no servants, no tent! Sit down at Bunya's, and send for information. Hear they are coming. Mule fell down and broke all my crockery! I got my first food that day about 8 p.m.

10th. — Rest. A stupid place. In a bad temper, I fear.'

What a very natural conclusion!

"Thought it was all up with me."
A fortnight's leave immediately after this march was well deserved, but it was marked by an episode that nearly cost the Major his life. Starting off by himself one morning with a coolie and bedding, he found his way barred by a river (the Hurroo) in flood. It was too swollen to be crossed, so, in his own words, he

1 Sept. 16. — Worked up stream with great toil over the hills. Found the river in two branches, crossed one with much difficulty, and .found the. other un-fordable. Towards evening got a rope from round my bedding, and threw it across to a native. Then stripped to my knickerbockers, twisted rope round my waist, and went in. Soon off my legs, and when in middle, rope broke. Thought it was all up with me. Struck out, and found then a benefit from my swimming at Peshawur. Swept down over a great stone, and the water darkened over me. Up again, and a few strokes carried me on to a rock on the bank. Thanked God for my preservation. Below was a very rapid place, where I might have got crushed by the stones. Pulled my things across without getting them wet.'

A free fight
What became of the original coolie, we are not told; but as another was engaged as soon as the swimmer had recovered from his startling experience, we may assume that he drew the line at crossing flooded rivers. The new coolie was engaged to carry the baggage to an inn 2 ½ kos (A mile and a half to two miles) away; but unfortunately a jemadar (Head man of his gang.) interfered, with some mysterious objection, and the coolie laid down his load. A free fight ensued. Doubtless it was very unseemly, but the circumstances were peculiar, and in the end both jemadar and coolie fled. After throwing the jemadar's shoes, stick, and axe into the river by way of retribution, Major Acton proceeded on his eventful journey, which shall be described in his own words:

Two potatoes, two eggs, and cold tea
'I shouldered my bedding, and toiled up the steep and rugged path. Meeting three natives, I prevailed on one of them to carry my bedding to the road. He offered to go the whole way for six annas, but having only eight left, I could not afford it. Now quite dark; shouldered load, and on. Met a man, who only hurried on. Sat down after one kos, and fed on two potatoes, two eggs, and cold tea. Struggled on, falling now and then. At length came down to a smaller river, and lost the road. Threw a stone before me, and found it went into deep water. Nothing for it but to lay down my bed and sleep.'

It is further recorded that as the traveller was falling off to sleep, he heard voices, and, seeing two men, he called out in Hindustani. But, doubtless thinking it was a ghost, the men only quickened their pace, and vanished with - all possible speed across the river. With daylight, however, things improved.

Five coolies were found in succession to carry the cumbersome bedding, and eventually a horse was hired to take the weary traveller himself the last few miles into Hurripore. Just as another instance of the delights of Indian travel, it might be mentioned that coolie No. 5 deposited his burden by the wayside after going half the distance for which he was engaged. Happily, the Major, following on his horse, noticed it, and his surprise did not prevent him from taking steps for the more effectual transit of his property.

The same night (September 17th), Charles Acton left Hurripore at nine, with servants and coolies, and in five hours found himself back again at the Hurroo River. An attempt to cross on his horse failed, and the party had to wait for daylight. Even then the fording was dangerous work; but it was safely accomplished, and the following day Peshawur was reached.

Back to Bombay
On the last day of October, the 51st left Peshawur for a long march to Jalandar, which was reached on December 9th. Here the regiment made its headquarters until the middle of November, 1866, when another move was made, this time to Bombay, en route for England.

Hunting bear again
Before leaving for home Major Acton indulged himself with a five weeks' shooting trip in the Central Provinces. Game was evidently prolific enough to satisfy the most enthusiastic hunter, and the diary abounds in entries showing how the Major revelled in the sport; but space is limited, and one extract must suffice.

[mangerode, C. P., Feb. 14, 1867.]

'Off at dawn. Foolishly fire at buck with lowest sight, and find he must have been 300 yards or upwards. Miss a hare and partridge. Pattiwallah (An outdoor servant) (comes) from Booranpoor with three bails, one can hardly move. Being tired send the men to look out for game. After some time I see a bear, then another. They seem to me very large. Go towards pattiwallah, but remember the other man has my second gun. If I wait, bears will not; but with one gun I don't hope to bag both, and my men may come back and spoil my stalk! I have to cross a steep nala with long grass that makes a great noise. Having crossed, take off my boots, and have good bare (Oh, Major!) ground under mimosa trees. See one bear moving away, and fear they are off! On coming to the top of the bank I secure myself behind a fallen tree. See both bears thirty yards off, take aim at one fellow's head, and fire; a growling and scurry, and, as well as I can see, both go fighting down the bank.

' This gives me a commanding position. I load and look down; one bear safe and making a piteous noise, and the other running about. I fire at this one, and she runs towards bank as if to attack. I retire to my tree, load, and then pattiwallah comes with my second gun. First bear moving in long grass, can't see him — get a glimpse, fire, out he runs and I kill him. Other, I fancy, not gone far as I should have heard her. Fire grass which won't burn well, but conclude no beast would have remained. (It was found dead next morning.)'

Return to London
On March 1st Major Acton sailed for Europe, and, having obtained leave to travel overland from Marseilles, he arrived in London on the 22nd, after an absence of three years and a quarter.

Next chapter.
Warning: include(footer.php) [function.include]: failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/parsonsf/public_html/acton/india1.php on line 81

Warning: include(footer.php) [function.include]: failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/parsonsf/public_html/acton/india1.php on line 81

Warning: include() [function.include]: Failed opening 'footer.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/lib/php:/usr/local/lib/php') in /home/parsonsf/public_html/acton/india1.php on line 81