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CHAPTER II
1853-56
FIRST YEARS IN THE ARMY
In action in Burma
Little more than a year passed after Charles Acton entered the army before he had a chance of distinguishing himself. From February, 1853, to the end of the year he served with his regiment in Burmah, and he was with Brigadier-General Cheapens force during the whole of the successful campaign in the Donehaw district, which ended with the capture of the Burmese chief, Myattoon.
[Note: This seems to be Myat Tun. "The British now demanded that a million rupees compensation for their war expenses be paid by April 1, 1852. The next day the war began, and the British soon seized Rangoon, Martaban, and Bassein. General Godwin occupied Prome in November, and the British annexed the province of Pegu in December.
King Pagan's half brother Mindon Min opposed the war; he fled with his brother Kanaung to Shwebo and organized a revolt. After a few weeks of fighting, Pagan's chief minister Magwe Mingyi went over to Mindon's side and deposed the King in February 1853. Mindon allowed Pagan to live in honorable captivity, and he released all the European prisoners. Mindon negotiated peace with the British but refused to sign a treaty giving away Burma's territory that included teak forests north of Prome. Resistance led by Myat Tun and Gaung Gyi continued in British-occupied Pegu for three years." - INDIA & Southeast Asia to 1875]
It is interesting to note in passing that the late Commander-in-Chief, then an ensign, was also serving in the same campaign. [Lord Roberts]
The greater part of the two following years was probably taken up by the prosaic routine of a soldier's ordinary life, and there is nothing of special interest to narrate. After that, beginning with August 25, 1855, a well-kept diary records the events of almost every day and the task of the biographer becomes comparatively easy.
A dull time in Malta
The diary opens with the somewhat bald statement, 'Arrived at Malta — Verdala Barracks.'
[These barracks were being planned, for 800 men, in 1849. In 1814 the Treaty of Paris recognized British sovereignty over Malta. The British established a governor on the island, but they permitted Malta to retain its declaration of rights and freedom of religion.]
Life on the island does not seem to have afforded much scope for unusual or exciting incidents, and appears to have consisted chiefly of a round of gaieties which were remarkable for their dulness. This is inferred from such entries as 'Ball at the Club House not much fun,' 'Ball at the Palace not good.' It is quite probable that these social functions were more of a penance than a pleasure to the young soldier, and that other views of the same entertainments would have been expressed very differently.
And, yet, even though attended simply from a sense of duty, balls and other entertainments could only rank as 'pleasures,' and their frequent occurrence evidently caused Charles Acton some inward disquiet. The following entry in his diary, written on November 29th, 1855, after a more successful ball than usual, gives a clear indication of the working of his mind:
'What do I ever do but what affords self-gratification? What have I done in the nearly spent year? Nothing! May the thought of that prompt me to be doing something in the next year.'
Charles learns Italian
The writer could hardly have intended to convict himself of wasting the whole of his time. The ordinary duties of his profession must have occupied a large share, and, while in Malta, he had devoted many of his spare hours to the study of Italian. But, in all probability, his keen self-examination revealed the fact that he had done little or nothing for the help of his fellow men, and, with his high ideals, the knowledge could not fail to seriously disturb his peace of mind. In after years such a reproach could hardly have been laid upon him, even by his own most sensitive conscience.
He visits Italy
At the end of December he applied for leave, which was evidently granted at once, for on January 4th, 1856, he left Malta for a tour in Italy. Two days later he landed at Naples, where he stayed for more than a week seeing the sights and exploring the neighbourhood. The diary contains ample notes of this visit, but nowhere do we find any expression of enthusiasm.
Paestum
Indeed, it would almost appear that Naples was something of a disappointment to the young soldier, for after visiting the temple of Neptune at Paestum, he recorded the opinion that it was 'worth more than all Naples and its neighbourhood!' As the temple in question is the most ancient and perfect specimen of Greek architecture existing outside Athens, the lieutenant's appreciation, although somewhat extravagantly expressed, evinces a soundness of judgment somewhat rare in an inexperienced tourist. Rare at least before Messrs. Murray and Baedeker kindly undertook to guide the judgment as well as the person of the unknown and unknowing traveller.
Outside the temples, of which it can boast three, Paestum is all dirt and desolation, and Lieutenant Acton was fain to hurry away as soon as the object of his visit was attained. Dinner time found him at La Cava, and early the next morning (January I7th) he was en route for Civita Vecchia, where he was to spend the night, on his way to Rome.
The journey to Rome
Forty-four years ago travelling in Italy was anything but an unmitigated delight — it is not absolutely that even yet — and the journey from Civita Vecchia to Rome by diligence is referred to in Charles Acton's diary in terms which reflect something of its misery. He writes:
'Started by diligence (11.30 a.m.), it soon commenced raining, and did not leave off till night-fall, making the Campagna look more than usually dismal. And this in sunny Italy! Three disagreeable natives in the carriage with me: I begin to dislike the whole race. Seldom made a more tiresome journey.'
But, like most experiences, however unpleasant, It came to an end, at last and in something over nine hours from the start Rome was reached (January 18, 1856). Even then the troubles of the traveller were not quite over, for the hotel at which he wanted to stay was full, and he had to put up at the D'Allemagne, which he tersely describes as 'very uninviting.' Evidently it was not the place for a long stay, and the next day a move was made to lodgings opposite the Borghesi Palace.
The following days were occupied with the usual round of sight-seeing, and, as of Naples, the impressions recorded in the diary suggest a certain lack of enthusiasm. Of the Coliseum in daylight is written, ' Was not so much pleased with it as with Paestum'
and three days later after a visit by moonlight, 'Not much struck by it: thought it looked better by day.
The Catacombs came in for even less reverential treatment, the only entry concerning them reading :
'The usual amount of groping in the dark, damp and old bones.'
On the same day the traveller records that he
'visited the Carthusian Friars and saw nothing,'
and we cannot wonder that a carnival on January 26 struck him as being 'absurd and inconvenient.' Even the Sistine Chapel was 'so dark' that the visitor could 'see nothing' and it is quite refreshing to read that St. John Lateran 'is beautiful beyond conception.'
A life-threatening illness
One would almost expect to find a physical cause for such unhappy impressions of some of Rome's greatest monuments. However this may be, the seeds of the baleful Roman fever were at work, and by the end of the month the disease had taken a thorough hold of its victim. Wretchedly ill, Charles Acton returned to Malta, where he arrived, after 'a dreadful journey' on February 4. On the 23rd he went into hospital, but three days later records that he was off the sick-list. Roman fever, however, is not easily disposed of, and at the end of April he was obliged to apply for sick-leave. This was at first refused, but when it was almost too late, it was no longer withheld, and on June 4th the patient left Malta for home. On the voyage he was so ill that he was hardly expected to reach Portsmouth alive, and when he finally arrived at Westaston, under the care of a brother officer named Gadded, the family doctor regarded his case as hopeless.
But his work was not yet accomplished. He was kept in bed for two months by rheumatic fever and Ophthalmia, but, by the goodness of God, his precious life was spared, and ultimately he recovered all his old strength and vigour.
Next chapter
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 "Charles Ball-Acton as a young officer")
 "Paestum temples")
Paestum