CHAPTER XXII

November 1884 to March 1885

DINAPORE (continued)

Inlpuyon district,
near Darjeeling,

'13th Nov., '84.

'My dearest wife,

'My last from Darjeeling told you of my trip to see the snows, and return to Darjeeling on 5th. I rested there on 6th, and on 7th E. and I again started for a walk in Sikkins. Sixteen miles of a pretty level and chiefly downhill road was to bring us to Poshake dak bungalow. I made a late start, and was benighted some 4 miles short of destination. I soon came on the coolie and Sammy and Eskhit. They were lighting our lanterns, and then our ten coolies, self, and Sirdar of coolies and two khit got on well. About 1˝ miles short of our dak a servant met us and brought us into a planter's house. I found E., and Munen, our host, at dinner. He met E., and took him in, and set a servant on road to watch for me. He got two beds ready for us, and treated us most hospitably, and in the morning gave us a good breakfast. He manages the Poshak Tea Company; has been there twenty-one years and home only once.

'8th. — We went down some 2,500 feet — then lovely woods — to the Jeesta River, about 900 feet above the sea-level. The views were lovely, and ferns and foliage very fine. Here we crossed Jeesta by a suspension-bridge and went up some 3,500 feet. As I go up very slowly, E. soon left me. I took it easy, and did not get very hot, as he did, and I took off my coat. I bought some oranges on the way. En route I met a daizi-bearer out of employ, who was going round the " commanar," as the tea concerns are called, looking for employment; then I met a catechist of the Scotch Presbyterian Mission of Kalimpong, where I was going. Arrived after three o'clock. A very mixed bungalow, with a garden —roses and marigolds, the latter so bright. Kalimpong is nicely situated on a ridge. There is Padre Sutherland and another sahib live there, but both were away.

'Sunday, 9th. — Found the rest very pleasant. After our service, went to the Bazaar, as is the custom in these parts on Sunday. All the neighbouring villages come into the towns and sell their wares. There were all sorts of queer things — bangles, charms, knives, cookeries, cloths, and fruit and vegetables of various kinds. About the priests' houses, all fluttering with flags, on which are printed and written prayers, I saw one man with a praying-wheel.

'Then there were people singing and dancing. The dresses are very odd. I find it hard often to tell whether people are man or woman. The former have very little hair on face, and all nearly wear hair long—many with hair and silk twisted in a plait behind to their waists or knees. Women wear all their rupees as necklaces and down to their waist. They are all very merry, but very ugly. If they were to put their face against a window, eyes, nose, chin, and forehead would all touch it at once, at least, it looks as if they were all in same vertical plane. They are most of them very wild-looking, and Dash at first would growl at them all. They are a very good, quiet people—seem to be no thieves. At Kalimpong I got a letter from you and others, and I am now (13th) about to send this there, three days' march back.

'10th. — Off again. Much better of our rest. A hot, but level, road through cultivation. We usually have bread or chupatties, and butter and cocoa before starting, carrying bread (chupatties), butter, and beef in pocket for lunch, which we take when we come to some nice stream of water, and now and then Sammy gives us milk en route. Then we passed through lovely woods and down a considerable way to Raelong. When near there were overtaken by Oldham, Commissioner of Darjeeling. He gave us tea and cake, and we all dined in my tent. We contributed the most. He offered whisky, but was very glad when I refused, as he was short. He had been upon the frontiers of Thibet, and he and all his coolies had lost themselves in the woods for two or three days, and their provisions were very short. They had to cut their way through the jungle and sometimes go in the tracks of wild elephants, of which there are many. He had sent on a young engineer with two or three natives to go further, and he was rather uneasy about him. Oldham comes from near Newtown, Mount Kennedy, Wicklow. Dined off a rickety table lent by the police-guards, secured by tent-pegs. Lanterns hung from ridge-pole of tent. Sammy always cooks, and the other kbits bring the dinner. S. gives us very good dinners. This was first night in tents, and we were very comfortable. We were going into native Sikkins, but Oldham told us we would perhaps be robbed and badly treated, and no shooting was to be got; better go to Ambiokh.

'11th. — After our chota hazri, two French priests who live here came to see us. I don't think they have done much yet. We left about 9 a.m., and came about 14 miles to Labar. Up, up, through lovely woods to 7,600 feet, and along the ridges of mountain ; then down to about 6,600, where was a little grass maidan in the middle of the forest. Very glad were we all to reach camp. I sat and watched an old woman cooking her dinner, which she did not like; but they put a log of wood, which I was not to pass, that I might not defile the food.

'12th. — After chota hazri came down some 3,700 feet to Ambiokh. Passed through lovely woods, ferns. About 3,000 to 5,000 through the tree-fern grows; some were about 40 feet high. A little lower the wild plantain grows. Here it threatened rain, so I put my charpoy into E.'s tent and gave my tent to the khits, and it rained pretty smart. Near this is Fort Baling, constructed on Vauban's system, taken from the Bholitis about sixteen years ago.

'13th. — Off again, we did not know where; down, down through lovely woods — very fine foliage, trees, ferns ; a nice wide path shaded by trees. Here we came on traces of many wild elephants. Toiled on about 12 or 14 miles and camped in the jungle near a few huts, and to-morrow we are to have a track.

Your affectionate husband,

Chas. Ball-Acton.'

On New Year's Eve we had a midnight service 11 to 12, and Sacrament after it. About 20 men (soldiers) came and a good many people. I am inclined to think, though it is a very good thing to begin the year with prayer, that it is best to sleep it in. I doubt its being a good thing to be up half the night.

The Nonconformists also had a service, and the Roman Catholics on Christmas Eve.

On New Year's Day we had a very successful united temperance meeting of all societies in and about Dinapore — three Lodges of T.O.G.T., T.A.S. at Rit, T.A.S.K.O.L., and C.E.T.S. They wished me to be in the chair, so, of course, I could not refuse. Had it in our theatre; began at 7 o'clock. House quite full. Began with thanksgiving for past year and prayers for the coming year; then songs, recitations, dialogues, etc. I made a short address, also Rev. Horton, chaplain, who had been a T.A. fourteen days; also Major Court, ditto one month. It was, as I told the meeting, with pride I produced these two new-made T.A.'s to address them. Five or six of our fellows came and several residents. The meeting was suggested by Corporal Kean of the 7oth Regiment, now the telegraph clerk here. Only six pledges were taken, but we hope much good will result.

When cholera broke out and the battalion went into camp, our society went down 196 to 39, and continued low till after Christmas, when they took on again.

Dinapore,
10th Feb., '85.

My dearest wife,

Yours of 14th January came on 6th; I rather think it was in the steamer that got on Perim.

How dreadful poor Gordon being taken when his relief was close by! One would have thought the Mahdi would collapse after Abu Klea, but, instead of that, he exerts himself the more. I expect we shall see Wolseley besieged now. I wish I could go with this next force; but Shelf is the only place now for me, though as the Mahdi says G. is turned Mussulman and has adopted his uniform, I suppose we may hope he is alive. I think myself there is more work for him to do. We haven't heard of an Indian contingent yet.

My time draws very near now.'

DINAPORE,
3rd March, '85.
My dearest wife,

Another week gone by, and so much nearer our meeting, I hope.

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I feel keen about many things, and don't want my work here to be over, and I would much like to have more time to work for God if I could do His work. I should like to be able to say, I have finished the work; but I have been a very unprofitable servant, Of course, this world is weary, and it is well for us if, in a right spirit, we long to be at rest; but even worldly people may wish for this when they tire of all things once doted on. If we do our work for God and in love to Him and our neighbours, we shall not be weary, except where we come short by want of faith.

DINAPORE,
10th March, '85.

My dearest wife,

Not many more numbers to write and hear. I have only ten days more to soldier in the old 51st. It used to seem so far off, and now it's close at hand.

The mail leaves to-morrow 9.15 a.m. I have just returned from mess (only nine more mess dinners) 10.30, and am writing in my bedroom with dressing-gown on, and Mouser on my lap, having purred herself to sleep.

It is now very pleasant weather, in that you are never cold. A month ago I used to sit in my great-coat with rug wrapped about me.

I think I told you the General (Sir Herbert Macpherson, V.C., K.C.B., K.C.S.I.) was very complimentary at the inspection; as we marched past he said "Splendid!" He did everything in a great hurry, and didn't see half the things he should.

Monday morning 7 a.m. we all paraded — 51st, 6th B.L.I., and Ai R.A.— and after riding round the line, we marched past quick time and at double. Then 51st fell out, 6th went to outpost, and he saw the R.A. officers drill the battery; then they went home, and we had the same. It rained heavily, and we nearly got wet. We then adjourned to orderly-room, and there he examined all our books, records, etc. Then all lunched with the Artillery, after which he did their books, etc. Then he dined with us, and we had other people to meet him.

Tuesday, field-firing; marched 21 miles west; then got on permanent bank of river, though at this time the water is over half a mile away. From here the Artillery fired at skirmishers, supports, and reserves 11,000, 1,400, and 1,700 yards distant, represented by screens of dusooti. Their practice was very good. Then followed 212 of our men, the best shots, and they fired five rounds each at same objects and distance. Then targets were checked, and we advanced through wheat-fields to the sands. We then formed line, and fired (51st and company) at 700, 600, and 500 yards, making very many hits. Then we went home, lunched with Colonel, and after that he went away, and there was a great calm. My last inspection.'

'Thirty-two years this month since I joined the regiment in Burmah. If any man will do his work with his might he will come to the front. Now is your time to improve your character. For this, drink to be avoided. I, eleven years water-drinker. Health, long life, and rupees. Also serve God. . . . Let every man try to fight as of old; and to be a good character and maintain the reputation, and show that the regiment is second to none! Men seem to listen, then I say good-bye, and God bless you all! My soldiering is done!'

Dinapore,
st. Patrick's Day, '85.

My time is very near. For some days I have got Colonel Farrington to do all the work. Last Sunday was my last, and I read service and a sermon — i Cor. v. 7 — for last time. This morning I had my last parade, and made an address and farewell to officers and men; wrote many chits, and made some P.P.C.S.

To-morrow last guest night. A meeting of all T.A. and Good Templars to bid me adieu. I go for half an hour. Thursday I dine at mess (worst of all). Friday I leave if I can get ready, which I doubt.