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CHAPTER XXI

Late 1883 to 1884

DINAPORE

Danapore (as it now is) and cholera
Towards the close of 1883 the regiment left Bareilly for Dinapore. Here cholera broke out, and there were many deaths. Colonel Ball-Acton was indefatigable in visiting the hospital patients, praying beside their beds, and cheering them with his wise and faithful words. There were other invalids besides the cholera patients, and many of these recovered, and told friends afterwards that they could date a great change in their life from the time that the Colonel used to talk and pray with them in hospital. With all this, the regular round of regimental duty was carried on, and the Colonel was still, as always, busy with temperance meetings and addresses, etc. He truly led no idle life. The following letters will show how interested he was in all good works.

'Dinapore,
20th, Feb., '84.




The man of great faith, George Muller
'George Muller of Bristol Orphanages is here. He had services in the Nonconformist church (which is at present a room in our barracks, used by the Good Templars twice on Sunday, and Monday and Tuesday in the evenings). I went to hear him the three evenings, and had a talk with him afterwards. I was very pleased. He is a wonderful man, and his earnestness cannot but make an impression. A number of our men went to hear him. I got one or two officers to go. Many had never heard of him. The orphans now number 2,200. He came to India for the purpose of proclaiming to the world and Christians how prayer is a power in the nineteenth century, even how it had procured him for his work no less than £1,200,000 during the time he has been at work at the Orphanage; and yet people (who do nothing but look after themselves) are found to run his work down. Good-bye, God bless you.

'Your affectionate husband,

'Chas. Ball-Acton.'

'DINAPORE,
'6th May, '84.


George's views may be absurd — I dare say they are — but many a thing will seem absurd to those who are content with the amount of wretchedness there is in the world.


Non-conformists are more homely, and more successful
Yesterday was laid foundation-stone of a Baptist and Nonconformist chapel. After that a tea and singing and addresses, and I was asked to take the chair. A good many men came and seemed to like it. The first chapel was built by Havelock; then another, now pulled down, so this is the third. These Nonconformist ministers get many more men to attend their meetings than do the Church of England chaplains, though the Church of England men are perhaps 4 to 1. The Nonconformist ministers are more homely, less official, more simple, and the serious soldier is a plain man. I never knew a High Church soldier, though there may be such.'

Dinapore,
20 July, '84.

My dearest wife,


We had a C.E.T.S. tea-meeting and reading last night, and I was asked to speak to it, and preparing for this took up the time I generally give to writing, so forgive this scrap. I believed I interested and amused. I told them how Samson's mother was ordered to drink nothing, and I never heard he was very weak in consequence. I saw some of the maternals looking at one another on this. It is very pleasant you and I are of same mind on this Temperance question.'

Luxury in Calcutta
In October, 1884, the Colonel went to Calcutta to be present at the opening of a bridge. He had never before visited Calcutta, and he was interested in seeing the city.

Calcutta,
Oct., '84

My dearest wife,

Here I've moved at last. Left Dinapore yesterday by 4.40 p.m. train with Ellis on thirty days' privilege leave. I sent some of my baggage by Ellis's gharrie, and took the rest in my bamboo trap — portmanteau, bag, bed, and rugs — and the sals and Sammy sat behind. This made too much weight behind, and one of the shafts began to go, so I deposited the sals, and got on, half broken though it was. At the station met Johnson — now Sir H., Bart, (his father having died) — just returned from Simla, where he has been in the Intelligence Department as unpaid attache for six months.

I never was in Calcutta before. It is much like Bombay, without the sea or hills. It is not very hot here now; punkahs are not much used. I brought the dog Dash with me; he will enjoy a run in the snow, if the leopards don't eat him.

We are putting up at the Great Eastern Hotel — about the best I have been to in India. "Go and sell all that thou hast, and give to the poor, and come and follow Me." Major Tucker seems to have given himself and his profession and prospects up to God's service more nearly according to the Spirit of above than anyone I have ever known. Shall I not then help him and his work, and give him the right hand of fellowship ? Has he erroneous doctrines? I haven't heard them.


The New Testament is full of comparisons of Christian strife to warfare. Is it worse to talk of campaigns than the Church militant? I think it very likely many Christians of other missions are attracted to the S,A. Tucker says many join them who were called Christians, but not converted, and we know it is the case that millions call themselves Christians who really are nothing at all. Is it not well if these are made to think?


I wish you knew Major Tucker and could see his work; you would like him.

Time's up — good-bye. Off in a few minutes to Darjeeling ; due there about 2 p.m. to-morrow.

Your affectionate husband,

Chas. Ball-Acton.'

On his way back to Dinapore from Calcutta the Colonel travelled by Himalayan Railway of which he says in his diary:

Himalayan railway very nice. Stop often to water, when you can get out and gather ferns.

Various adventures seem to have befallen him in his visit to Darjeeling and the neighbourhood. He speaks of the fine views of the snows to be obtained, and of the grandeur of the mountains all round. Tree-ferns, plantains, etc., abounded, and rhododendrons grew in profusion. The nights were very cold, and camping in the Dak Bungalows was not always very comfortable. Often the road was difficult to find, and occasionally the Colonel found himself in very real danger, while he suffered much sometimes from weariness and cold.

A letter, written during this expedition, may be quoted here.

A brush with death
Darjeeling,
'7 Nov., '84.

My dearest wife,

Only a short letter to-day, as it is twelve o'clock, and I have a five hours' march to Pustrok in Sikhim.

We went out for four days to Sandakphu to have a view of Mount Everest and closer view of Kinchingunge. It was very lively, but harder marching I never did. Sadri Korton, of Dinapore, was with us.

Last day, coming home, I made a short cut; thought there were two roads, going, of course, more or less parallel. Of course, if so, I could not go very far wrong when between them. So I thought I would meet one road or other. Alas, no! I struggled from 8.30 till dark, cutting briars, etc., with penknife, beating down bushes with sticks, crawling under bushes on hands and knees, scrambling over or under fallen trees, falling down and sliding many feet headlong, and all this where no man ever goes.

I had Sankey's Hymns that morning. I lit on 302, read it, and when almost done I knew He would give deliverance. I thought possibly I would never get out. I had no pencil, but I turned down the leaves and marked two verses; and I thought if my bones were found—after, it might be, years — it would show what my thoughts were.

What was worst of all, I got the staggers, from stooping and scrambling, no doubt; so now and then my knees would give way, and I would fall down in water, and my knees and hips shake, I being perfectly helpless; then I would get up, struggle on.

Soon after this I saw a fishing-trap, and I thanked God and took courage, as I knew there would be a path. To find it might be difficult, but surely not impossible.

If I got the staggers again, I was gone, even if — well, I doubt if I would have tried. Even Dash, who went halfway on it, whined and turned back. So I had to try another way, and, by help of a fallen tree which I swarmed up, I got up a very steep place out of that pit. But then the jungle was as bad as ever. I struggled down towards the stream; it fell dark, and I could not get water to drink, though close by. I fell or lay down, and so Dash and I prepared to pass the night. I began to shiver about seven o'clock. Dash helped to keep me warm. When the moon rose high, I struggled on, lay down again, tried to sleep, struggled on again, lay down under a fallen tree, and had some sleep.

Fortunately, I was below the frost, but the dew dropped on me sometimes. I did not shiver, and altogether it was not nearly so bad as I expected. I was not very hungry, though all I had were a few chupatties and cocoa in the early morning and a small bit of same at mid-day.

Five o'clock when I saw the rosy morn. I was glad, and toiled on and soon got warm, and not very long after spied a path that looked as if not trodden for a year; but I rejoiced and thanked God. Careful not to lose it; it gradually got wider, and I came to a camping-place of herdsmen.

Now I was all right, and I followed the path — rather bad in places; but I got no staggers, and by ten o'clock I got to a hut, where were a few men. One of them took me to a village (Mundel) at quarter to eleven of two or three houses, where I lay on some boards and a blanket and pillow, while they killed and plucked a marghi. I cut it open, and told them to wash it. They grilled it, fried potatoes, boiled rice and dhal and milk, and I made a capital breakfast.

About 8.30 p.m. I started for Darjeeling, about 18 or 19 miles, and arrived safely Darjeeling at eleven, had some bread-and-milk, and slept first-rate. I am very well after it all, but hands and face scratched, and many tick-heads left in me.

Goodbye.

Your affectionate husband,

Chas. Ball-Acton.

Next chapter.
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